Pakaian Tradisional

Destar Elang Bekelai

Oleh: Dato’ Akhmad Elvian, DPMP
Sejarawan dan Budayawan Bangka Belitung
Penerima Anugerah Kebudayaan

DESTAR dalam bahasa Melayu berarti setangan kepala, tengkolok (tekulok), atau kain untuk ikat penutup kepala. Disebut setangan kepala atau ikat kepala karena kain setangan disusun atau dilipat dan diikat dengan bermacam-macam bentuk untuk dipakai pada kepala.
ADA bermacam-macam jenis destar, seperti destar beranting-anting, destar berapi-api yang biasanya digunakan oleh para penari dan pemusik Melayu, kemudian ada destar bertatah, yaitu destar yang disematkan dengan beberapa perhiasan untuk keindahan, selanjutnya ada destar hitam berkotak, yaitu destar yang digunakan oleh penghulu atau penggawe adat, ada lagi destar pelangi yaitu destar yang beraneka warna. Penamaan destar tergantung pada bentuk susunan lipatan dan ikatannya.

Dari bentuk lipatan dan ikatannya muncullah nama-nama destar seperti, destar Ayam patah kepak, Elang menyongsong angin, Balung Ayam, sarang Kerengge, destar Tebu setuntung, dan destar Elang berkelahi (Lang bekelai) seperti yang dikenakan di kepala Depati. Kata destar juga menunjukkan beberapa peribahasa Melayu dengan makna yang mendalam, seperti: “Destar habis, Kopiah luluh” yang bermakna kehidupan yang berat pada diri seseorang karena menanggung kerugian dan kesusahan yang besar dan berat, selanjutnya peribahasa: “Destar hancur, Kopiah hancur” yang bermakna perbuatan atau tindakan seseorang yang kurang berhemat dalam kehidupan.

Sebagai bagian dari rentang Tanah Melayu, destar populer dikenakan masyarakat di pulau Bangka pada masa lampau, di samping mengenakan sungkok/kupiah sebagai penutup kepala. Sungkok atau Kopiah yang bersulam Emas, bahkan merupakan salah satu tanda pengangkatan seorang batin/depati atau rangga/keranggan di pulau Bangka. Dalam buku Semaian 2 Carita Bangka, Het Verhaal Van Bangka Tekstuitgave Met Introductie En Addenda, E.P. Wieringa, 1990, Vakgroep Talen en Culturen van Zuidoost-azie en Ocianie Rijsuniversiteit te Leiden halaman 90 dan halaman 91 dijelaskan, sebagai tanda pengangkatan rangga atau keranggan oleh sultan Palembang dikaruniai Satu Kupiah Emas, Satu Keris, Empat Tombak dan Satu Tepak (Ipoh), tanda menjadi kepala di tanah Bangka.

Masyarakat kebanyakan di pulau Bangka terutama yang laki-laki, biasanya menggunakan sungkok atau kupiah dari anyaman inti batang Resam yang disebut sungkok Resam serta menggunakan destar atau setangan kepala sebagai penutup kepala dalam aktifitas kesehariannya, sedangkan perempuan Bangka, dalam aktifitas keseharian, umumnya menggunakan penutup kepala yang disebut tekulok atau kulok. Destar atau setangan kepala dibuat dari kain kasar hitam pemberian sultan Kesultanan Palembang Darussalam.

Kain kasar warna hitam dan selembar cukin diberikan sultan kepada pribumi Bangka yang sudah menikah sebagai imbalan karena telah membayar pajak Timah Tiban seberat 50 kati kepada sultan setiap tahun sebagai tanda raja.

Dalam Pasal Empat hukum adat Sindang Mardika yang berlaku di pulau Bangka diatur ketentuan tentang pajak Timah Tiban: “Tiap-tiap orang Bangka yang telah kawin atau yang telah punya mantu, wajib mengeluarkan sepotong Timah Tiban. Tetapi kalau sudah bercerai, Ia bebas pula dan yang perempuan tidak boleh keluar dari tempatnya atau negerinya”. Kewajiban membayar pajak tidak ditujukan kepada pribumi Bangka yang belum menikah atau yang sudah bercerai.
Bagi perempuan pribumi Bangka yang sudah bercerai tidak boleh keluar dari kampung atau batin tempat tinggalnya. Hal ini dilakukan untuk menjaga kehormatannya dan fitnah yang timbul dan dapat menyebabkan kecideraan bagi dirinya, bagi kampung atau bagi batinnya. Bagi laki-laki yang sudah bercerai tidak dikenakan pajak Timah Tiban karena tidak memiliki lagi tanggungan istri dalam kehidupannya. Tiban adalah sejenis pajak sebagai tanda raja dalam bentuk barang sedangkan tanda raja dalam bentuk uang disebut dengan Tukon. Pembayaran pajak Timah Tiban awalnya dilakukan pada Tahun 1709 Masehi, masa Sultan Muhammad Mansyur Jayo Ing Lago. Sultan pada masa itu telah memerintahkan orang-orang Melayu dan Cina untuk membayar upeti dalam bentuk Timah (Encyclopedia van Nederlandsch-Indie, Vol. I, The Hague: Martinus Nijhoff, 1917, hlm. 35).

Destar dengan bentuk Elang Berkelahi atau Lang Bekelai sebagai setangan atau ikat dan penutup kepala orang Bangka dalam sejarah dapat dilihat dari gambar lukisan “Bahrin dan Pengikutnya/Keluarganya”, dari buku Schiderungen Aus Ostindiens Archipel, yang ditulis oleh Franz Epp dan diterbitkan Tahun 1841. Pada Tahun 1836, Franz Epp, seorang Jerman ahli pengobatan, diberikan kesempatan oleh Depati Bahrin berkunjung ke rumahnya dan diberikan waktu untuk melukis Depati Bahrin dan keluarganya di village of Depatti Bahrin yaitu di kampung Mendara. Depati Bahrin pada saat dilukis berusia sekitar 61 Tahun (Bahrin, lahir sekitar Tahun 1775 dan wafat Tahun 1848), sedangkan Amir pada waktu itu sebagai putera Sulung Bahrin masih berusia muda sekitar 38 Tahun (Amir, lahir Tahun 1798 dan wafat Tahun 1869), sedangkan Hamzah atau Depati Tjing pada saat itu masih kecil berusia sekitar 3-4 Tahun sehingga tidak dilukis secara bersamaan (Tjing, lahir Tahun 1832 dan wafat Tahun 1903).

Pada kesempatan yang sama dalam bukunya, Franz Epp mengatakan tentang Depati Bahrin dan Depati Amir, sebagai berikut: ”Der Depatti Barin zeigte sich hier als ein tuchtiger Guerillafuhrer, indem er und sein Sohn, der Depatti Amir, sich stets unsichtbar zu machen wussten, wenn sie in die Enge getrieben waren” (Depati Bahrin menunjukkan dirinya sebagai pemimpin gerilya yang ulung; Ia dan puteranya, Depati Amir, selalu dapat menghilang, bilamana mereka terdesak) dan “Depati Amir, ist ein gefahrlicher Mensch von verdachtigem aeussern” (Depati Amir seorang yang berbahaya dan ekspresinya selalu mencurigakan).

Destar Elang Berkelahi (Lang Bekelai) yang dikenakan dibuat dengan cara melipat dan mengikat selembar kain setangan di kepala. Kain yang digunakan berbentuk Bujur Sangkar yang kemudian dilipat Dua menjadi berbentuk Segi Tiga. Pada sisi yang panjang Segi Tiga, kemudian dilipat sebanyak Dua kali selebar sekitar Empat jari orang dewasa. Setelah itu bagian ujung kain dilingkup dan disimpul sebanyak Dua kali di bagian dahi kepala membentuk posisi seperti Elang berkelahi. Bentuk awal ikatan destar Elang bekelai awalnya sama seperti mengikat tanjak Sekelopak Kembang, akan tetapi kemudian posisi simpul yang berbentuk seperti Elang bekelai diputar dan diletakkan di tengah dahi serta bagian kain yang menanjak di belakang ditekukkan ke depan dengan ujungnya diselipkan pada bagian antara dahi dan simpul untuk mengencangkan lipatan.

Destar Elang bekelai memiliki makna filosofis, bahwa orang yang mengenakannya selalu berada dalam posisi siaga untuk berjuang dalam simpul yang teguh dan kokoh. Bagian kain yang menanjak lalu ditekuk menunjukkan, bahwa kekuasaan dan jabatan depati yang diberikan Belanda, ditekukkan atau dikembalikan kepada Belanda karena lebih mementingkan rakyat dan diputar balikkan menjadi simbol perlawanan sebagai bentuk penentangan kepada penjajah.

Walaupun perlawanan yang dilakukan Depati Bahrin berhenti melalui perundingan pada Tahun 1828 dan Depati Amir kemudian meletakkan jabatan depatinya kepada pemerintah Hindia Belanda sebagai bentuk perlawanan pada Tahun 1832, akan tetapi Bahrin dan Depati Amir tetap berada dalam pengawasan Belanda. Pemerintah Belanda berusaha keras membatasi setiap jengkal pengaruh Bahrin dan Amir di masyarakat.

Pengawasan Belanda dapat diketahui dari suatu korespondensi Residen Bangka, De Blij, berikut ini: Afschrift, Muntok, den 19 Januarij 1833, N: 45, Aan Den Administrateur van Pangkalpinang: Naar aanleiding van het voorkomen, de en Uw politie rapport over de maand December, heb ik het woolig geacht Uwegs opmerkraam te maken, dat Baharin geen zegt heeftom kampongs aan te leggen op lieden te doen verhuizen naar de Kampongs Lebok of Katayoe zoo als ook zyn zoon Amir, seolert hy zyne aanstelling heeft terug gezonden en zijn ontslag aangenomen is, geen gezag of bestuur meer mag intoefenen als een gevolg van dien moeten zij zich in een der bestaande Kampongs neder zetten en mel meer na bij, doch niet verder van Pangkalpinang, dan zij thans wonen; terwijl Kampong Lebok en Katayu meer van de groote weg ten Pangkalpinang verweperd zyn dan Loekoe en Doerean bras …De Resident van Banka De Blij.

Maksudnya: Surat Residen Bangka kepada Administratur di Pangkalpinang, Muntok 19 Januari 1833 no. 45/salinan: Dengan timbulnya kejadian-kejadian dan adanya laporan polisi sepanjang Desember 1832, dengan ini perlu perhatian Anda yang terhormat dengan secara cermat, bahwa Bahrin tidak memiliki kekuatan hukum untuk menyatukan kampung.

Apakah Dia tinggal di kampung Lebok atau Ketayu sebagaimana yang dilakukan putranya, Amir, sejak Ia dikembalikan dari pengangkatannya dan menerima pemberhetian. Tidak boleh lagi (bagi mereka berdua) menggunakan sesuatu yang bertalian dengan kekuasaan dan pemerintahan. Ia harus menetap di suatu kampung yang ada, yang lebih dekat, namun tak jauh dari Pangkalpinang, yang sekarang Ia tempati. Kampung Lebok dan Ketayu terletak di jalan besar dekat Pangkalpinang menuju Loekoe dan Durian Bras.

Kecurigaan pemerintah Hindia Belanda terbukti, bahwa perlawanan rakyat Bangka terbesar meliputi seluruh pulau Bangka terhadap penjajahan Belanda selanjutnya dipimpin oleh Depati Amir. Berdasarkan laporan Residen Bangka kepada Gubernur Jenderal, Belinju 26-1-1851/XIV-A (ANRI:BL: 25-3-1851 No.13 hal.3): …”bahwa pemberontak Amir banyak punya kepentingan besar, dan bilamana tak tepat waktu ambil tindakan keras diubah, pemerintah Bangka masih bertahun lamanya dengan kesulitan yang sangat itu, akan mendapat kesulitan”.

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